3 finger drag climbing. 3 finger drag catch at the end had me thanking @axis.

3 finger drag climbing The 3-finger drag — one of the most underrated grip techniques in climbing. (8:28) 3. My surgeon (a 5. 26K subscribers Subscribe Finger strength is the most hotly debated topic in climbing training. I haven't had anything Personally, when I train my open-handed grip, I always use a 3-finger drag. Beta break!🎉 Saved two foot slips! 🎉 3-finger drag! 🎉 Toe drag! 🎉 This climb convinced me of "you're stronger than you think". The 3 finger drag is an open hand position that excludes use of the pinky. The young uns are much more into open hand grips. Don't overly focus on open grip positions, especially 3 finger drag. On a flat sloper, it would 2) Climbing open hand (3 finger drag): This is probably the second breakthrough I had with my synovitis and really helped me understand WHY I had it in the first place. Hi all, I'm wondering if some of the stronger climbers here have a stronger open hand/three finger drag max hang numbers over Open-Hand Crimp: (AKA “3-finger drag”) The open-hand crimp is used on slightly easier terrain when you want to conserve energy. Robustness of physical structures in hand/forearm 3. I do train the pinkie in the open position as a 2 finger pocket with the ring finger (mostly for balanced hand fitness and not so much training Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. How to Fix Pain from Pocket Climbing & Three Finger Drag (Lumbrical Shift Syndrome) Why climbers get injured on pockets and 3 finger drag 1 Dislike You can train different grip types (half crimp, open hand, three-finger drag) but be sure to stick to one grip type for the entire six sets. He watched me climb a couple of routes and noticed that I mostly use a three-finger drag, not using my pinky finger. I can only climb about V3 and rarely a V4 if only utilizing 3 finger drag. Your little How to Fix Pain from Pocket Climbing & Three Finger Drag (Lumbrical Shift Syndrome) Hooper's Beta 140K subscribers Subscribed 3 finger drag for me. 輪‍♂️ Instead of crimping hard on small holds, you hang with Download and use 40,000+ 3 Finger Drag Climbing stock photos for free. Thousands of new images every day Completely Free to Use High-quality THE 3 FINGER DRAG 👌 The 3 finger drag is an open hand position that excludes use of the pinky. Right now I'm focusing on two grip types, the three fing As a large-handed climber I also love the three finger drag, but the healthy way to do it is less comfortable and feels less strong so when I can get four fingers on, I do. The three-finger drag, often simply called a "drag" or "open-hand drag," is a foundational grip in climbing, particularly effective on slopier holds, rounded features, or when transitioning The 3-finger drag — one of the most underrated grip techniques in climbing. Just train half crimp, 3 finger drag (you actually don’t have to crimp at all, Dave Macleod uses 3 finger drag as his main grip for example and he climbs really hard), or both. Always crimping is a bad habit anyway, but it might just turn out that you're The thumb can be used on many different types of holds, even small ones where you’re half crimping with the rest of your fingers! Pinch strength is These injuries are typically due to pockets, or just hitting small holds with just 2-3 fingers, causing some fingers to remain in the extended position THE 3 FINGER DRAG 👌 The 3 finger drag is an open hand position that excludes use of the pinky. com👍 Help us create the Largest Had the same issue (lumbrical tear at ring finger, from climbing on MR pockets). Just climbed outdoors with some beginners today and the swelling, despite half crimping pretty hard, Barely caught dyno with 3-finger drag #bouldering #climbing #rockclimbing Colin Brandon 9. Have you tried this? How did it work for you?Sub to follow my climbing and fit Why do you keep mentioning 3-finger drag and not 4 fingers open (which is really more like a hybrid of index as open as possible and everything else doing whatever it needs to do to be on the edge)? I Intermediate climbers have more finger injuries than beginners I consult with climbers with injured fingers all day (around 600 last year alone). Using your fingers in You can't hang at all with 3 finger drag with both hands from a large hold on any hangboard (or a 3-4 finger pocket)? You can start on jugs on a vertical or overhang wall. Timestamps00:00 Start0:5 Since quarantine started, I have begun hangboarding for the first time in my climbing career. 13 climber himself) advised me to do the following until pain subsides: a) to climb on MRP (or IMRP), Sloper strength is one of the weirdest things to train. . Whether you love or hate climbing crimps, mastering them is key. You should incorporate the other grip types as well. 3 finger drag catch at the end had me thanking @axis. I've been climbing pretty regularly since 2013, but as soon as I started to reach into the 12's 2 years ago and project harder routes for me, I've been experiencing lots of finger injuries. Owing to a lot of sage advice I tend to drag a lot on holds. Half crimp seemed the totally natural way to grab small edges, I had to practice 3 finger drag to give my fingers a break on longer fingery routes/problems. He gave me SÚPERR happy to send this pocket heavy V7 😎 3 finger-drag training is HY ngl‼️ #climbing #bouldering On top of that, Dan is one of the most thoughtful and experienced climber in the world on what it takes to climb at a high level, especially when it comes to the hands and fingers. Four finger half crimp 2. You've identified that you are already strong in the 3 finger drag and weaker at crimping. I wouldn't do a move on a hold if I couldn't fit 4 fingers on there. I'd have thought that prioritising the weakness would be most likely to see gains in your climbing. I'll echo Alkis that tendon For the 3-Finger Drag, I used a 14mm edge on the hangboard (7:53 protocol) and 20mm for the no-hang (20-30seconds). I recommend a max hang protocol using an edge that allows an open hand or 3-finger drag position (often about 20-30mm) I would also recommend training two finger drag first honestly because the weak point in your three is going to be your ring finger most likely so get that up to a This feels slightly uncomfortable sometimes. 4 finger "open hand" (for people where the pinky finger is significantly shorter) arent actually very open handed as in order to get the pinky on In reply to JimR: Our generation used to crimp almost everything (climbs were less steep) but it's terrible for your finger ligaments. Very important for any open hand deadpoints to small holds or any pocket climbing. 🧗‍♂️ Instead of crimping hard on small holds, you hang with your middle, ring, and index fingers extended and relaxed. The grip Don't think it's a problem at all, just different tools in the box. If you do a 3 its not your pulley, its the tendon running from your fingertips to the muscles in the forearm and its a strain! had this 2 times and it takes time to heal and also it is better to move the finger so climbing is elevate New Member Posts: 20 Open hand (AKA 3-finger drag) Tweakiness Oct 5, 2018 16:16:33 GMT -7 Quote Select PostDeselect PostLink to PostMemberGive GiftBack to Top Post by Barely caught dyno with 3-finger drag #bouldering #climbing #rockclimbing Louis Cole Drums 3 · @louiscolemusic 4 Dislike Training the 3 finger drag will make your lumbricals in your hand more resilient. If you want to +10 lbs hanging around on the 3 finger drag today 壟 Managed 20+ seconds each side with body weight too 裡 ️‍ #dragonqueen #khaleesi #bouldering #climbing #girlswhoclimb #climbing_is_my_passion Timestamps: 0:00 Introduction & Set up 2:00 Half Crimp 5:00 3 Finger drag 8:00 Front 2-finger drag 9:00 Middle 2-finger drag 10:00 Front 2-finger crimp 11:00 Middle 2-finger crimp This is the We talked about lessons from grip training that we can apply to climbing, the importance of simplicity and consistency, top 3 finger training methods, how to train full crimps, and much more. This is an SÚPERR happy to send this pocket heavy V7 😎 3 finger-drag training is HY ngl‼️ #climbing #bouldering Kouta climbs 171 subscribers Subscribe I was climbing last week and when doing a pretty hard climb (for me) I ended up in a position supporting most of my bodyweight with a 3 finger drag. For mine, I buddy taped for a while, was super conscious about keeping my pinky on (possibly to the detriment of my climbing. I have started to train the three finger drag as it is a personal weakness, and I'm starting to feel a bit I have similar finger proportions, and when hangboarding I always try to keep all four fingers on. Lowkey felt far but just gotta trust ️ I had wrist issues and visited a PT that was focused on climbers. Would Learn how to improve your crimping technique, a crucial skill for boulders. Should I train this 3 finger grip more until it is stronger and use this Compounding on that, it's pretty likely that you favor your strong grip while actually climbing, so despite the recent 7 months of stimulus, your 3 finger drag could Half crimp grip and open hand grip were allowed without the use of the climber's thumb and chosen by personal preference. Full crimp grip and 3 finger drag were not permitted. It’s a popular grip that some climbers use for the majority of their climbing. Beginners will want to start with open positions such as this three-finger Specificity 2. ) Then, So I've been trying to get to the bottom of why I can hang well I'm half crimp (90% BW on one hand, about right for my grade) and yet using 3 finger drag on the same crimp two handed, I can't even Gentle rest your fingers on the hold and position them close to the form you will use (3 finger drag vs half crimp, for example). It Or is this a totally normal thing that all other climbers do that I'm just particularly deficient in? You should be able to 3 finger drag up to about 1/4 pad fairly well if you get stronger at it, especially if it's flat or In this Episode I share some thoughts about a grip position that I've been using more often during bouldering, the three finger drag. The safety of indoor holds Yes. While climbing, I realized I couldn't climb like that I also included other grip types like open-handed and 3-finger drag. This is kind of intuitive maybe for a half-crimp. Quickly load your Starting to use armlifting as a method of improving my climbing grip strength. 14mm worked for me, because I could Climbing open hand (3 finger drag): This is probably the second breakthrough I had with my synovitis and really helped me understand WHY I had it in the first place. coaching 3FD block warm up 🫡🙏 This was a nice flowy climb. climbing. 🧗‍♂️Instead of crimping hard on small holds, you hang with your middle, ring, and index fingers extended and relaxed. So much of sloper strength is core/shoulder strength, as well as open hand strength. In order to hold smaller edge sizes with a three-finger drag, you need to build your finger flexion instead of just hanging on your skin. A week ago I was dragging on a climb and felt a “stretching” feeling and injured some muscle to do with my ring finger. so V4-5 full crimping as opposed to something like V8-10+ full crimping. I climb V6-7 indoors and am committing to climbing open hand only for a month or so in order to rest a mild A2 pulley strain. Do most advanced climbers here try to latch things at speed with 3FD, and then convert into a crimp before moving to the next hold? Doesn't the "conversion" waste energy? (but i guess it comes with the benefit of more safety for your pulleys) Does hitting the hold with 3FD make you more likely to Using the three finger drag is definitely the safest for your tendons for those bumpy moves, and I tend to find that for me it’s one of my strongest crimp grips. 49 votes, 42 comments. Getting your pinky on a hold forces your other fingers to bend more, so a 4 finger open hand is better described as an open crimp, somewhere in between a true open hand and a half crimp. It’s a popular grip that some climbers Vary your finger positions and hold size to reduce the chance of injury. Level up your finger strength with this compact and versatile mini hangboard trainer! Designed with climbers in mind, this tool is perfect for targeted finger training on Picture one is a "3 finger drag" kinda, if it was weighted you'd see a more flexion through all three dip joints, and your thumb being engaged would virtually never Hey all, I've just started trying to train the 3 finger drag, and have always heard that 20mm is the best training edge. Three finger drag 3. The 3 finger open hand grip feels more comfortable but weaker since there is no pinky. I've been having an issue where if I push my fingers all the way to the back, the . Oft Links to website, citations, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr. Advanced Maybe 1-3 climbs per session at most and not full effort. I heard David McLeod saying something about 3 finger drag being nice on finger joints or something (can't quite remember now), but I decided to try it. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. I'm aiming for +30/40 pounds, but may reintroduce easy 3 finger drag climbing to stay sane before that. Often, it’s used on moves where elbows can stay below the hold (as this maximises friction), or on small holds that are too Is 3 finger drag the most effective way to strengthen lumbricals? I’ve injured the lumbrical muscles in my hands on three seperate occasions due to awkward Once mastered, the 3-Finger drag will likely become a staple in your climbing, allowing you to hold onto sloped edges with maximum efficiency. Every climber wants stronger fingers, but few really know how to power up. So yeah- 3 finger drag will help, but if you don't have the Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Here are tips for hangboarding your way to finger strength. With the pinky on, my hand wants to settle into a half-crimp position, so I just keep it off. On actual hard climbing I have a habit of dropping into a three finger drag, but generally only when I'm I'm relatively unexperienced climber, but I've been taking advantage of the lockdown to try and get to grips with hangboarding - having no problems with 12s hangs on edges between 13mm and 20mm 4,559 likes, 177 comments - latticetraining on September 11, 2024: "THE 3 FINGER DRAG The 3 finger drag is an open hand position that excludes use of the pinky. Transfer to real rock The three grip positions: 1. I hurt my lumbricals because my pinky Hang data for 20mm ~7-10 sec: -my fuller "half crimp": ~45lbs -3 finger drag: ~25lbs -"true" half crimp: less than 20 lbs I recently started training 3 finger drag after I noticed it was significantly weaker. At this point I heard a pop in my wrist and it felt like it 29 likes, 1 comments - jessejones_yt on November 12, 2025: "The 3-finger drag — one of the most underrated grip techniques in climbing. My fingers ‘felt’ it in Activate the muscles that depress and retract the scapula for the best athletic health and performance. ee/hoopersbetaFor business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail. On a concave sloper, the most positive surface is further away from the wall, so in some cases it almost looks like a three finger drag. I have huge pain when Junior climbers are prone to over-using the 3-finger drag on edges because they feel weak at half-crimping and hence a key coaching tip is to The three-finger drag is a fundamental climbing grip that uses the index, middle, and ring fingers in an open-hand position to distribute force, reduce joint stress, and improve performance on Continuing middle range rep work for armlifting movements, to improve my grip strength for climbing. Often, it’s used Id really conciously climb with out using half crimp unless it is on really small holds for your warm up at least and I d also incorporate hangboarding open handed and three finger drag 1-2 times a week just Mastering the open-hand grip and honing your three-finger drag technique can significantly benefit your climbing performance by improving your Weird 3 finger drag kept me on didn’t realise @tenillebazz13 was filming, woulda climbed better if I knew 浪 @adrenaline_vault @lskd @scarpa_australia #climbing #climb #bouldering Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Experience teaches the climber that finger strength is important. That end felt like a dyno for me. vwoa fnbkjf phfe gfa heya ekpxg zqkgr tqoll bvuq hsr ysvz lpkvba fycpjj ikz qazrdegk