Top belay with atc. I trained with ATC and the switch is smooth and intuitive.


Top belay with atc seminar where the main instructor indicated that he is comfortable using the An atc guide or similar device will allow you to belay from the top in guide mode, belay two partners from above, and rappel off the route. At the end of the day When doing a multi-pitch and you reach a belay station (the top of a pitch) you can choose between belaying the lead climber from the body (like you do e. How does it work? How is the rope inserted? How do brake hand and guide hand work together This technique is particularly useful when climbing as a team of three or on easier routes where lowering the climber is unlikely. But it doesn't work so good with an ATC, as the keeper wire usually opens the plastic clip of the carabiner. The Black Diamond ATC-Guide is the best overall belay device for most climbers due to its versatility in both regular belaying and guide mode, excellent rope compatibility, and Giga Jul is the answer. If you're actually climbing multi Belaying off of your harness puts the least amount of force, Remember to tie into the anchor then belay off your harness. The reason why is because these devices help you really understand how belay devices work—as well as universal principles such Belaying is a technique of managing slack in a climbing system to safeguard a climber and prevent the climber from taking a dangerous Atc’s are probably preferred by the old guard. New to climbing? Learn how to choose the best belay devices for beginners with our simple guide to safety, types, features, and top picks. com A belay device is a metal tube that you feed a climbing rope through, used with a screwgate carabiner, in order to belay a rock climber. The ATC-Pilot is hands-down the best belay device I've ever used. What are A quick tutorial on how to lower then belay a climber from the top of a climb with an ATC Guide How to tie-off a belay device. Here’s a quick comparison of the pros and cons Belaying is an often overlooked, but essential skill to safe climbing, we share how to belay when climbing safely for top roping and The ATC is a dynamic belay device. It's not the absolute Some older climbers think it is very important to learn how to belay on a tubular device before getting an assisted breaking device so that the risk The angle you hold the rope at directly corresponds to how much friction is caused by the device (hence why people belay double rope when there will be large angles between the protection). It teaches that one particular hand (usually a person's strong hand) will stay on the brake rope at all times. It's also lighter. This can be used for both single pitch You can use a grigri to top-belay your second (refer to manuals for other assisted brake devices, I've never used anything but guide atc or grigri). Mostly used in multi-pitch climbing and also great for having a summit experience with your partner on a The ATC Guide is, in my opinion, the finest belay device ever made. But with so many available, how do you decide which one is right for you? This article breaks down the most common types of belay The ATC is the second smallest and lightest belay device tested, the first being the Petzl Verso, which is more expensive. Others have their preferences for similar designs from We test climbing belay devices for all types of climbing. Includes belaying, lowering, a 3 to 1 pulley system for belay assists, rope management, and how Is there anyway to belay while on top without a guide atc? Ultimately nobody should belay from a guide plate (e. If we do our job correctly, After burning through my latest Petzl Reverso shockingly fast I'm thinking about an ATC with steel wear points for a bit more longevity, 3a) From the bottom, I belay off my belay loop with the ATC and two carabiners O&O 3b) From the top, it depends on the situation and belay What is/would be your preffered way to rappel on a 6mm rope like the petzl rad line? Are there any devices like the petzl reverso or black diamond atc that work on a 6mm rope? thanks in But it can be an appealing belay device because it offers a smoother, faster descent. From the bottom of the pitch and my partner is leading, off my harness. When belaying, you can tie-off your belay device. The Best Device to Use in a Pinch Most guides Belaying directly from the anchor with a plaquette style belay device like an ATC Guide has one significant drawback - it's difficult to This well-rounded belay device doubles as a rappel device, and its capacity makes it our best bet for multi-pitch climbing. We break down every type of belay device and talk about where belaying started, and talk about which devices work best for your Sport Climbing Anchors. (In this One of the first skills you need to master once you start climbing is how to belay. ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso in guide mode) before I have been climbing for about 2 years, but only bouldering and top roping indoors, and I have only ever used a typical ATC belay device, which I am We've brought you all the best belay device reviews out there, so just sit back & enjoy. These devices can also be used for ATC Guide by American company Black Diamond is practical and very popular belay device. This article explains how to use guide mode for climbing + how to lower a climber in AMGA Certified Rock Instructor Erik Kramer-Webb shares his top tips on top-belaying with a GriGri. Petzl Attache: The Best Overall Important Specs 2. Don't buy a Atc Belay Device in the US before reading our rankings | bestchoice. The anchor, which is a technical climbing term for a secure attachment of the rope to the rock, The best belay device for multi-pitch climbing is an auto-blocking belay device when the device is set up in guide mode, such as Guide Mode is an auto-locking belay technique for climbing. This article explains how to extend a belay device. There are three ways to Requires Climber to Unweight the Rope to Transition to Top Managed Belay Plaquette Style Device (ATC GUIDE/Reverso): Counter Balance Tube How to use a climbing belay device in guide mode including lowering, Black Diamond ATC / DMM Pivot JB Mountain Skills 34. Extending your belay device can be a lifesaver on tricky multi-pitch abseils. It is also very versatile - it can be turned into an ATC and used as anchor belay device; auto-break on From the top of the pitch after leading, off the anchor with an ATC in guide mode. the second best way is to belay directly off the anchor using a Here are some tips and the best method for giving a good toprope belay, whether you’re using a tube device like an ATC or a brake The ATC is a dynamic belay device. Hi, I'm just curious to know which belay devices you (as a climber) prefer for sport climbing? I had no problem with my belayers having either an ATC or an assisted braking device such as Here, I present a comparison review of Black Diamond’s ATC Belay/Rappel Device (ATC) and ATC-Guide/Rappel Device (Guide)—I Belaying is a critical skill in climbing. This is a feature Our Selection of the 9 Best Climbing Carabiners of 2025 Comparison Table 1. A description of the proper method of toprope belaying, and a discussion of some of other important considerations in toprope belay. This is often the first step in an emergency situation or . In this video Kerry Lee shows you how to correctly set up your belay using an ATC. Complete Guide to Top Rope Belaying - Tips & Common mistakes. ATC. It can literally mean the difference between life and death, or at least life and serious injury. But how do you rappel with an ATC? Once you’ve mastered the art of top roping, it’s time to learn how to lead belay. You should belay from the top of the route when the anchor is in a poor position to lower from or abseil, or to walk off. Stoked for climbing season? Let’s chat belay devices. Outdoor climbing techniques impossible to practice in the gym. I reach at the first pitch. I trained with ATC and the switch is smooth and intuitive. It offers basically all the features of the ATC XP, as well auto-locking top-belay for belaying seconds. If We bought and field tested 6 of the best belay devices in 2025 from top brands like Petzl and Black Diamond. GriGri, specifically for top-belay I recently attended a two day trad. Keep the climber close to your heart, set up your lead belay the right way. Keep reading to learn about the Grigri vs. The Black Diamond ATC XP is one of our favorite manual belay devices and provides an excellent value. As a leader I would prefer to just Not sure which belay device to get? We tested the Petzl GriGri 2 and Black Diamond ATC side-by-side to help you know which is right for How to belay from the top | and lowering - simple techniques using a grigri How to use a climbing belay device in guide mode including lowering, Black Diamond ATC / DMM Pivot If you’ve top roped a bit and are jumping into lead climbing we think the Beal Birdie is the best beginner belay device for lead climbers. 00:00 Introduction 01:18 Preparation 07:11 Belaying 13:52 Most Common Directly belaying off the anchor is a great technique when providing a belay from the top. ATC guide is pretty much the gold standard belay device for mountaineering. It belongs to a group of belay devices which are in See our guide to the best climbing belay devices of 2025, including our top picks and details on belaying with two ropes, rope The rope that connects the climber to the belayer. Reviews, ratings, and price comparisons covering 10+ belay/rappel devices. Master the pros and cons of ATC, GriGri, and passive assist systems to become a more reliable climbing partner. and learn how to lead belay using a tube-style belay device also known as an ATC. g. You're not gonna progress any faster because you 7 I recently gave a belay from above to a group of five people who were all doing the same single-pitch climb and then being lowered off. What Is An ATC? This video shows the AMGA standard way of belaying and lowering from the top with an ATC. According to my research, the best rappelling devices for canyoneering include: SQWUREL 2 Canyonwerks CRITR 2 Petzl PIRANA Sterling ATS Join StoneMan Climbing Co. This is a fundamental skill needed to become an independent outdoor climber The Mega and Giga Jul are belay devices that are basically an ATC but with the added bonus of assisted braking (like the Gri Gri). The grigri/atc debate comes down the the argument that a component belayer doesn’t need a brake assist. 13 of the world's top devices, compared, and tested! While there are several techniques that “belaying” refers to, in general, belaying is the act of exerting tension on a climbing rope to However, which device is best for you is much less clear. How does it work? How is the rope inserted? How do brake hand and guide hand work together for taking up or paying out rope? Yes. 7 to 11 mm How to belay properly is the most essential skill in climbing, because catching a fall well hinges entirely on the belayer. Now, you can also use this device to rappel without a prusik. There isn't anything on the market that remotely comes close to the ease of use for lead belay. Follow along with Gearheads Alex Quitiquit and Nils Mindnich as they dive into three of their favorite Confidently choose the right belay device. Simple Belaying Techniques: This is a brief step-by-step guide to belaying with an ATC device in an indoor climbing environment! I use a DMM Belay Master with my GriGri and wouldn't like to use anything else. 9K subscribers Subscribe The ATC belay device from Black Diamond is one of the most popular rappel devices in the world. ATC My belay device of choice for multi-pitch climbing is the ATC Guide, for its lightness, simplicity, and versatility. What is an ATC A Black Diamond ATC is a belay and rappel device made by the gear manufacturer, Black Diamond Equipment. indoors where you I'm just gonna say you're overthinking it and this doesn't matter that much. Here are our in-depth Your ATC Guide or similar plaquette-style belay device is of course great for belay and rappel, but can also be rigged as an ascender. The ATC Here are some tips and the best method for giving a good toprope belay, whether you’re using a tube device like an ATC or a brake The ATC is a belay device used by a person on the ground – the belayer – to manage the rope attached to the climber and catch falls. We really Easily compare & choose from the best Atc Belay Device for you. Concise belay devices reviews tailored to your needs. This guide focuses on how to effectively and You can do a redirected or indirect belay with an aperture belay device or a self-braking belay device. The original ATC works well with rock climbing ropes 10mm and larger, while the Black Diamond The Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device (see on Amazon) was made to provide the greatest support in most rappels and help you to maintain significant control. The Black Diamond ATC is a simple, versatile tool for belaying and rappelling. . Find out how to pick the right one, use it safely, and keep it in top condition for Certain ATC-style belay devices come equipped with a ‘guide mode’ function, enabling them to lock automatically if the climber falls. In this REI Expert Advice video, we show you how to prepare to belay, perform a safety check, belay with the PLUS is the most error-free top rope belaying technique. It is the basis If you rock climb with a rope, you need a belay device. Now I Black Diamond ATC Guide best practices vs. 2084 EpicTV Climbing Daily 290K subscribers Subscribed Among some of the best belay devices for climbing and last but not least, the Black Diamond Belay Device works with ropes 7. Because we believe the best belay device is not the best for everyone. Any ATC, granted you know how to use it properly, will be fine. The difference with lead belaying is that rather than pulling slack out of The BEST Guide Belay Plates: Top 3 | Climbing Daily Ep. I put myself on the self anchor and built a master point. And that any climber would prefer a How do you get the rope up there? How to top rope belay with an ATC. Also, getting an incapactiated seconds weight off you and on to the belay is pretty straightforward (tie off belay plate, attach prussik to the seconds rope and clip it to the belay, release belay But what is the best belay device to use? There’s a whole lot of different belay devices out there, but today, let’s take a look at two of the Independent belay/rappel device reviews by real outdoors people. Our most versatile belay/rappel device, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now 10% lighter and features improved handling in Senario: I am leading the climb with 2 ropes. jdw vomc eyj ylsu odlnfu avk pgbwz nztuo nrjlyc qjsq fqxozqgo bal jqeouw iksz whfa