Best climbing nuts vs hexes reddit. For me they're more versatile than regular nuts.
Best climbing nuts vs hexes reddit Just use the sideways long end of the nut tool and smack the hex as hard as you can from the wire or sling side like your hitting something with a hammer. 20K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. Don't let people who don't know what they're talking about scare you. What you should get for your starter rack ultimately depends on where you're climbing though. In this update, we purchased 7 of the best sets and slid them into cracks of all sizes across the United States. It will need to be assembled/disassembled repeatedly over the years. can you eliminate the need for other stuff like hexes, and tricams?) Hexes, tricams, ball nuts, and big bros are all in the same camp in my mind: you either know when you need them, you carry them out of preference, or you don't know that you don't need them. Tailor your rack to suit each climb. ) My standard that I usually bring is: BD Nuts. Folks have explained to you the nut but the wired hex is older. A lot of different hexes have been wired over the years with no problems. Small cams or second set of nuts. The hex is meant to be able to be placed in 4 different attitudes. Plus, in the right situation hexes are absolutely bomb poof. Red Camalot 30-52 mm; #4 Rockcentric 30-36 mm Hexes are great for alpine climbing where the weight savings are significant and you may need to leave bail gear to get down. I'd certainly round out your cam selection down to maybe the gold dragonfly before ever thinking about hexes for summer rock. A lot of the options for cutting cost on a trad rack don't actually save you money, just delay you spending it. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. I've seen both positive and negative about hexes and nuts. That being said, if you like hex's the Torque Nuts do compliment a set of Rockcentric's well as there are some slight sizing differences between the two brands. Metolius master cams size 00 - 2 are useful, but they are more fragile than larger cams and the possibility of damaging them in a fall is high. There are plenty of great placements for normal nuts on all the routes I climb. After that, start picking up doubles in the useful sizes (as you climb more you figure out which ones you end up using a lot), but then definetly get some offsets. First off is the rock secure than then you need to look at how well the device sits in the shape of crack. Single set of cams 0. As far as Offsets vs. Get the ones with sharp corners rather than smoothed-over corners. So far my favorite things to place have been the DMM torque nuts (hexes), which have been quicker for me to place and much more solid when pulled from any direction. But if you’re new to trad climbing, how do you make sure that you’re getting the best climbing nuts? With climbing experience, you build your own personal preference. If you're starting on Granite splitters as mentioned above however, cams end up being safer and a more useful way to protect. I don't know if I've ever seen anyone climbing harder than 5. 75 Wild country friends 1-4 Dmm wall nuts 1-11 or wild country rocks 1-11 Maybe doubles of the mid sizes of nuts if you do long pitches. Hexes, tricams, ball nuts and big bros could be either essential or useless depending on the area. The common denominator is that they are removable, as opposed to fixed gear that is permanently secured to the rock (such as bolts). nut tool. Climbing Nuts 101 will help you make that decision when you're getting your first gear for trad climbing. I love my torque nuts, but in the end it's best if you're familiar with as many types of gear as possible, so collect a variety (Including hexes which many people won't/don't know how to Buy some nuts and hexes but borrow your friends cams while leading. Build simple two piece anchors or use natural features when available, a device like the Kong GiGi can be useful if you've got a party of three. I'm not sure what you are asking. Learning to properly place protection is an essential skill as you progress as a trad climber. It's very expensive to replace those regular nuts with offset nuts, to replace those hexes with cams, to replace those standard camalots with ultralights or totems, etc. Everyone's saying to get hexes, which isn't wrong, but IMO the best cheap alternative to cams are tricams. On my rack you will find no hexes or tricams but you will find some smaller nuts (a mixed set of bd micros and metolius astro nuts). I wouldn't worry about the cowbell noise too much - do you really think you'll be carrying a full set of hexes every time you go out? Jun 13, 2018 · I pretty much always carry my hexes and when I find a good placement for one, it is the most secure placement on the route. 30ft of cordelette. They are pretty decent, but in my opinion not the best hex. 550 votes, 31 comments. But I personally love smaller BD hexes for nuts. Jan 8, 2024 · I started climbing at the Avon Gorge, where cams are definitely not recommended as a part of a starter rack. Trad climbing is constant critical thinking and judgement calls. Alpine draws. Reply r/climbing • r/climbing • r/climbing • r/climbing • r/climbing • r Jun 11, 2012 · I grew up trad climbing in Australia in the 90s where bolts were something only occasionally seen as a rap anchor and the standard rack looked like this: 2-3 sets of nuts 1 Full set of slung hexes up to #9 or #10 3-6 cams Lots of knotted slings and loose biners I recall only once or twice seeing I usually bring 2 cams, 2 hexes, some tricams/nuts, slings and cord. I guess the argument would be if you’re climbing hard, only wire protected routes, they can be not only clunky and not fit very well where other nuts can, but due to their hardness they have a tendency to “walk” out quite easily if the rope snags a bit on the draw. DMM offsets are great nuts but there's only 5 of them, so if you buy a set of regular nuts (DMM wallnuts are again awesome, but most brands of nuts are also good to great) you'll have 10 more pieces. Offset hexes were the norm when I started to climb in 1977. With a subtly asymmetrical cross-section, flat sides and slight end-wise taper, they offer three different widths when turned on their axes and another when placed end-wise. Reply reply DinoLavasaur • Classic, simple, lightweight, functional pro, Black Diamond Hexes shine in rapidly widening cracks where cams might walk out. Hexes clean as quickly as a nut that you need a nut tool to get out, often times quicker. Nuts and hexes all have a curved side, this is for camming them in, a fall will cam them in harder. I'm all about diversifying your skills and all, but don't get any hexes unless you want to sound like a fucking wind chime going up the rock. Oct 31, 2024 · Our climbing experts have been testing the best climbing nuts and stoppers for over 10 years and over 15 different sets. Placing nuts are intuitive, they are inexpensive, and will last you a long time. At crags with splitter cracks, I obviously place more cams. And having two different sizes like 5/16” & 3/8” together on the same but is invaluable. Do you guys notice a huge difference as far as ease of placing or how well they hold in the rock when comparing offset stoppers, nuts, and hexes to your basic ones? Would you choose to use one exclusively over the other or a mix of both? Cheers. I'm torn between rockcentrics,and torque nuts, anyone have preferences? Climbing Sports comments sorted by Best Top New Controversial Q&A Add a Comment [deleted]• Additional comment actions Feb 20, 2021 · Best to think of hexes as an extension into larger sizes from your set of nuts. Don’t climb with a lesser setup if you don’t need to. Getting into leading trad routes? Learn how to choose types of passive protection, such as chocks, nuts and hexes. Stuff like prusiks, gloves, belay plate and a nanotrax+tiblock for rescue. Weighing out your comfort level to how much actual weight you want to carry. What nut sets do you own? And your opinion of it. Again not that people with hexes are bad climbers, but at most crags when I see hexes its a small question mark and I watch a little closer initially. IMO this is really the only way to save on gear. Nuts are an essential for every trad climber. I'm running old Tango "made by Hudy Sports" nuts, and I recently realized that they are actually offset in one plane and parallel in another plane. The 5th loop holds all of my nonsense gear that I carry for non climbing/emergencies. Feb 2, 2024 · These origins and the heavily continued use of passive protection in England today, produce some of the best climbing nuts for trad climbing available today. nuts TRADITIONAL CLIMBING, ALSO CALLED TRAD CLIMBING OR JUST “TRAD,” is a particular style of roped climbing that involves placing your own protective equipment as you move up a climb, then removing it when you’re done. 1-rope 60m. My boss has the biggest hex Black Diamond ever produced and has named it "Jeebus," and if you climb with him you're required to place the Jeebus. I'm still pretty new at trad climbing and I was a hex sceptic until the other day - I went climbing somewhere different to my usual haunt - a rather exposed cliff where the erosion had scooped out the most marvellous hex placements - absolutely bomber! Nov 19, 2025 · Climbing nuts are one of the first pieces of trad protection climbers will purchase. Keeps the front 4 loops clear for cams/nuts and slings while I climb. Apr 14, 2025 · Best Climbing Nuts Buyer’s Guide Hey fellow rock scramblers and vertical adventurers, So, you’re in the market for some shiny new climbing nuts, eh? Well, let me guide you through the twisted maze of options with some pearls of wisdom (and humor) from my own rock-bottomed experience. That said, folks climbed a lot on nuts, hexes, and tricams before modern camming devices were invented. I will be picking up one to fill the gap between by DMM's and sets of nuts. (There's also a link to the conclusions in the video description. They can be placed passively (like a nut) or actively (like a cam), depending on the orientation and features in the rock. I also run DMM offsets, I feel okay about them. So, one could argue that each hex has the benefit of being more diverse. If the hexes are slung on cord (as they will be, in sizes 4 and up) then you should replace the cord if it's "original". Slings, ropes, cordalettes and things like that should be replaced after a certain period of time has passed. Gear Placements – Hexes and Tri Cams The judgement we need to select a placements for Hexes and Tri cams is very similar to selecting a nut placement. Sep 16, 2011 · Small Hexes vs nuts: in small placements nuts are going to be easier to seat, trying to cam a small hex is (probably) a nightmare so you might as well use a nut (as an uncammed hex is just a nut anyway). As noted by u/muenchener it might date from the late 70's but I suspect it's from earlier then that. Here's what you need to know. Nuts and Cams for Sport Climbing Hey Everyone, I've been top rope and lead climbing for a few years outside, and I just started to wonder if it might be worth buying a few Trad pieces. e. Once placed you can set them fairly hard. Why aren't hexes (torque nuts) more common on trad racks? I'm learning trad and I've had exposure to a lot of different gear. 8 generally takes great cams or nuts. 5 mm cord and use some plastic tubing to fill the extra size of the holes in the bigger pieces. Nuts and hexes are much more useful as a beginner (maybe not hexes as much). This What particular cams, nuts, hexes, or bits of gear do you use in climbing in the Gorge? What sizes do you primarily use? Where in the course do you… (Optional) Hexes - Get a set of 7 Wild Country Rockcentrics or a set of 4 Dmm torque nuts, BD hexes are junk. ) The big decided is what kind of rock you climb and being able to see good nut placements. . Friends share racks. Regular nuts go, I would get a set of regular nuts, just because they are cheaper and you can probably picked up a used set for 40ish bucks on Mountain Project. TL;DR: square nuts allow for greater torque to be applied in 3D-printed parts than hex nuts. I know with offset nuts it happens over time. The home of Climbing on reddit. Honourable mentions to the smaller blue offset, and the red six. Most nut placements here take offsets much better than straight ones. Are T-nuts a good option for bolts that will be screwed in and removed repeatedly? Longevity? I am working on the design of a project that will consist of several parts made of 2x2s. You can take the socket driver off the hex shaft and clean the magnet, or use the magnet to pick screws up. Don't let DMM's marketing fool you though that those four sizes replace six sizes of conventional hexes. ly/3clZ1pcAt last! I’ve been waiting to do Jun 21, 2022 · In reply to beardy mike: Although I rarely carry hexes I personally think hexes are best in the sizes larger than standard nuts (DMM/WC No 11) and are super simplistic to place in their most basic orientations making them perfect for larger cracks. 6-sport draws. I always rack at least two. Oh I see, your saying the wire will get bent back and forth if fallen on in cammed mode? I suppose over time it could happen. Where as your standard nut has two. 3-3 Wild country zero friends . 1-. Old hex nuts passed on from uncle. I don't believe it. I'm not sure I would recommend them for a beginner but they are essential on moderate routes in places with lots of pin scared but bomber granite. May 1, 2022 · On the other hand, trad racks for lead climbing consist of quickdraws, runners and slings for clipping pro and building anchors, and an assortment of protection devices (cams, nuts, hexes, and so on), a cleaning tool, and more. You don't say where your largely climbing but for the Lake District offsets are a total revelation. Thoughts? Thanks! comments sorted by Best Top New Controversial Q&A Add a Comment b4ss_f4c3 • Additional comment actions My rack is slowly coming together but right now I am borrowing gear when I lead from my fellow climbers. Reply buyabighouse • Additional comment actions Hexes, mainly work like big nuts, if you have cracks bigger than a nut, and too tapered for a cam you probably have a use for them; they can be cammed in too, but it's very fiddly to get right, and if you don't have to doing it on lead is madness. Nuts Buying Guide Double Cap Read Time - 9 minutes May 2020 Standard nuts are the backbone of any traditional climbers rack. 177 votes, 35 comments. Please excuse my nescience, but can you get by with only using cams and nuts for trad climbing? (i. There are many different types of trad pro, including cams, nuts, hexes, Tricams, Ballnuts and more. That little gold wire held my first fall, and ever since, brings on good feelings on a lead. While the original unit had two placements (one passive, one active), the So I saw that article from a week ago saying hexes make you look like a noob. And I really love them nuts. Cams are certainly easier, quicker and more confidence inducing but well placed passive pro is bomber. Easy to rack and pla Get some nuts and that will probably carry you into plenty of 5. I think tri cams come into their own on small pockets in the smaller sizes which is much more rock specific and usually at higher grades. In addition, DMM's marketing is full of crap that those four hex's take the place of six hex's. extra lockers and non-lockers. I've recently started trad climbing as well and am using DMM nut set 3 (includes a set of nuts, offsets and hexes). Came here to say this, Malco reversible bits are the best. 7 and under, everything over 5. Plus you can go on eBay and get a whole hex set for maybe $30 Another upside of using strictly hexes and nuts is that if/when you decide to invest in cams you have a better understand of where works well for what kind of gear. These will give you a good range of sizes. I find the hexes and offsets tend to have the strongest placements and get placed more often but I definely still use the nuts a lot. Learn how to place hexes; how to use them passively (like a nut) or actively so they cam into cracks. In the beginning of your trad climbing career you should focus on building a solid nut rack and learning to place them well. Edit: Also can't deny I enjoy placing an old machine nut slung on cord, occasionally. Like many things in the climbing community, preference for passive protection is based on what usually amounts to personal opinion. 85 votes, 37 comments. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. I have money for about 6-7 cams and for the nuts I was planning 1-11 in normal nuts, 7-11 in offsets, a set of peenuts 1-5 and hexes, 1-4 Is this good for a beginner trad rack? They place easier and set harder. Each of these are described below. This article explains everything about using climbing nuts: placing, racking and removing them. Sometimes, if there is a long space between bolts or I climb past the anchor, it might be nice to have something that I could secure myself with. 550 votes, 38 comments. Check which types are most commonly used at your chosen climbing area before you commit to buying a full set. I have black diamond stoppers, and I'm looking into wallnuts, also not sure what I want for hexes. DMM wallnut, size 3. We have been climbing for a while, guiding professionally avoid, mostly for usability reasons: trango flex cams, rigid stem anything, anything with a U-stem like TCUs, tricams, hexes, ball nuts, big bros, extra large nuts. Oct 28, 2016 · From cams to nuts to hexes, learn the basics of trad gear with tips for buying your first rack. 3-3. The downside being that hexes are easier to place incorrectly. 9 with hexes, besides old school hard dudes. The extend-able sling setup is brilliant and They have strengths and weaknesses, and I wouldn't argue that they're really an acceptable replacement for cams in modern trad climbing. The chances that you'll need big gear is pretty small, and the hexes are light, cheap, and effective. Sport draws. They look like they're in pretty good shape from the photo. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. I think it would take a while. Here is my thought and correct me if I'm wrong. climbing protection: when to use cams vs. To put it bluntly, choosing the best climbing nuts can feel like being halfway up a pitch only to realize Jul 24, 2025 · They're an essential part of any climber's trad rack, but what makes the best climbing nuts? There's many different styles and brands to choose from when deciding on which ones you're going to buy. Always seems to go in on the most engaging fun pitches. 10 trad climbing as well as alpine stuff. The larger sizes are worth carrying at certain areas, especially those that have very uneven cracks that form constrictions for the hexes, and have multiple pitches where you are constructing anchors and you can use the hexes in your anchor and save your cams for the actual climbing. Some of my occasional partners don't own any (and we are obviously climbing in the same areas), so I'll grab mine to supplement the rack if we are climbing on their gear. I'd love to try the DMM nuts since everyone and their mom has a hard on for them. I'm just starting to build a rack, and wanted to get an idea of if they're still good to climb on. I only have about 2 years experience climbing and 1 year leading. ly/3vhJwabOr buy a Sling Mountain T Shirt?! http://bit. In val di mello my perfect (money not an issue) rack would be; Dmm dragon . Most trad here in Stockholm is face climbing broken up granite and I personally place my HB offsets more than even cams. In order to place trad gear efficiently and securely, you must I am an old school climber and I do not hate hexes. And yes we are scared of falling. Wouldn't it be best to start on hexes and nuts? While hexes may be used on routes 5. The fabric components will break down eventually, even without use, but the metal gear like nuts, hexes, and even cams will last for ages. Use high strength 5. This will teach you far more about trad climbing strategy, placing gear and the intricacies of placements on different rock types and routes, than You have to balance what works the best most of the time. If you know the difference between a nut placement and a cam placement, nuff said. Larger Ughhhhh, the point of the hex has apparently been lost on everyone since they came out in the 70's. Nuts are usually sold in sets of around ten. I don't even bring those things out anymore because they annoy me so much. These were fiddly to place for freeclimbing and tended to lift out but could still be used for aid climbing. Reply reply mattambo_ • Aug 8, 2022 · With no moving parts (hence, “passive protection”), nuts are inexpensive, lightweight, and sturdy. A couple ropes. 1. and everything else necessary for basic trad climbing (nut tool, non-lockers, lockers, etc. Sep 6, 2013 · The Tricam is a puzzling piece: It’s delightfully simple, with no active—or moving—parts, yet it has more potential uses than either a spring-loaded camming device (SLCD) or a standard nut. Are they really that good? Is this obsession just my immediate environment or is it because offset nuts are really that great? Metal doesn't weaken with age, so cabled nuts are fine. Cams, nuts and slings are used at most climbing areas. But I don’t want to carry two racks of nuts, so I choose offset. May 31, 2020 · Want to buy me a coffee or the boy a dog treat?! http://bit. 51 votes, 73 comments. Learn how to place, remove and rack climbing hexes. Is cordalette okay to use for these? comments sorted by Best Top New Controversial Q&A Add a Comment theboddha • Additional comment actions Came across these old (70s?) Chouinard nuts and hexes on Craigslist. My immediate group of climbing partners obsess over offset nuts. Certainly a good deal better than Black Diamond Hexcentrics, and far, far better than Metolius Ultralight Curved hexes. 8-alpine draws. The main thing you need to watch out for in used gear is any fabric components. Adjama Is my go to as well. DMM Offsets. it's dangerous. Harness isn't bulky but holds a lot of gear and is padded enough to be comfortable on multi pitch. For me they're more versatile than regular nuts. So I'm seeking potential burner nuts or replacement for the Trango The Rockcentrics do come in more sizes, but mostly on the smaller end of the scale. bfkp lwyy rdr tckjwh igv dmers nknfwgc pnppvv zte wifne bgtpz batujxnc mwnp grsb lmh