Climbing grades conversion reddit. No ridiculous cruxes, not 80 meters long.

Climbing grades conversion reddit Over the last 15-20 years, this has generally evolved to being a "overall difficulty of the climb" type grade, taking into account hardest move, sustained series of moves, rests available, overall sustained work needed for the climb, etc. I also listened to a podcast where Alex Johnson basically called people who climb at your gym weak. 12 at mine, and this holds true for outdoor climbing grades as well. 7, but it took so long to get here that it feels like I’ll never be a 5. Climbing rock with crampons and tools can make it easier (you just need a lip big enough for the tip of a pick or a seam wide enough to jam a mono point in) or harder (try smearing in crampons). We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Read now! There was some discussion on how the V and font/uk tech grades match on ukclimbing recently, with rockfax softening their conversion. This data is helpful to prevent injuries, and better prepare your finger strength for various climbing grades from medium (v5-v10), to difficult (v10-v14), to elite (v1 Sep 19, 2025 · When Mixed Grades were first introduced, it was all but a given that a “mixed” pitch would involve ice climbing—usually a hanging dagger—at some point. So don't worry about Bouldering grade VS Sport Grade (and what to expect) Stumbled across this article and found it quite useful/interesting as I'm a sport climber who basically uses bouldering as a tool to get stronger. 1/5. On another note, why does everyone want to convert V grades to YDS? I've never understood that. aid climbing equipment is used but only where the equipment is temporary and not permanently hammered into the rock), the most common system is the C-system (e. Now I’m comfy to around 5. Mixed climbing is a discipline where you use both dry rock and ice to climb a route, relying on your crampons and ice tools to gain purchase on either surface. Something would be nice for sure. How to Use the Sports Climbing Grades Chart: To use this table, simply find the grade you wish to convert and click on it or follow the row to see equivalent grades in the other system. For this reason I propose the following conversion 볼더링, 스포츠 클라이밍 그레이드 변환표입니다. Somebody makes this comparison every few months, but it always suffers when it's one climber musing on other climbers' subjective experiences. May 2, 2023 · What’s with the 5. Climbing Grade calculator for determining finger strength needed for different climbing grades based on research using the Grippul. Aid climbing grades take time to stabilize as successive repeats of aid climbing routes can materially reduce the grade. New comments cannot be posted and votes cannot be cast. If you can climb a 3Q in a Japanese gym you should be able to climb around V4 or V5 somewhere else in the world. These are averages as every climbing gym is different but I went to some major climbing gyms (Innsbruck). why all the overlap it’s not even simple groups. Get help comparing bouldering, sport, and trad climbing grades. This will help you compare and convert across some of the most popular grading systems. Apr 29, 2024 · Learn everything about climbing grades and quickly convert any climbing rating with our free climbing grade conversion chart. Here’s another Grade Conversion Chart. Sep 25, 2023 · Climbing is a universal sport, spanning from remote walls in Alaska to the sunny sport climbing routes of Spain. I see very very few people climb 7b and 7c grades. 12c" - a handy conversion chart for Singaporean climbing grades. What boulder grade do you think a 9a route would require you to climb, strength wise. The color scale from easiest to hardest here goes from yellow, green, blue, red, white, and black. 12a and 5. Convert rock climbing grades between French, YDS, British, and UIAA systems. Bouldering is a bit different than some other forms of rock climbing and it has its own grades, the V-scale, for defining the difficulty of the climb. See full list on climbinghouse. But by not paying attention to the rock climbing grade, you’re essentially risking your safety and that of others. Mar 31, 2016 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Google "climbing grade conversion chart". There are grade systems for bouldering, grade systems for sport climbing, grade systems for aid climbing and so on but even grade systems for the same style don’t always translate well between each other. You can see people in this subreddit and r/climbing arguing about the grades being too easy in about half of the threads which consist of a video of a graded problem. I’m not sure if this is a bouldering system or a sport climbing system as the gym has both and I’ve not checked if the high wall has a separate system. Other climbing gyms I go to just say what grade each route is. 10, for example between 5. I saw a lot of higher level people struggle with it, especially shorter people. The system can extend beyond to higher dan grades for extremely difficult climbs. I live in Europe, I started climbing in January 2019 (10 months). 12a at one old school crag, will be more like a 5. e. Reply reply FreackInAMagnum • Rockax conversion tables indicate 6a is a 10b. top rope and top rope vs. I live and grew up in Europe and grade I/II is easy scrambling that doesn’t require a rope. I am worried about going to an area in Spain where I can't climb much due to the grades; friends are all set to go and I am looking for reassurance that I will have plenty of routes to pick from for two weeks. Now climbing 6B/6C boulders and sometimes even almost a full 7A sport climb. Feb 9, 2024 · Bouldering grades can either be the bane of your existence or they can push you to climb harder. Mar 25, 2024 · Learn how to convert climbing grades, common challenges, and resources for accurate conversions. 10 trad climber. The kyu-dan system helps climbers understand the relative challenge of different bouldering routes. Free, instant climbing grade converter to help you understand foreign grading systems. This guide delves deep into the world of rock climbing grades, offering insights into their origins, variations, and how they compare internationally I hate this type of grading system? I climbed the yellow and pink routes and found it so frustrating having to guess the grade. It sounds like people have climbed the line in the summer without ice gear. I was wondering if anyone here has experience with both French and YDS and can provde feedback on grade 6 routes. In my experience a V0 problem is significantly easier than a 5. 14b. I look these up so much that I only need to type "c" into google to have it autofill to "climbing grade conversion chart". Jun 10, 2024 · Grade Converters Bouldering and Lead Climbing Grade converters and other tools for rock climbers. What's the difference between bouldering grades? The Font Scale, V Scale, what else? We explain everything in our review. Gyms in smaller areas, or small gyms in large areas that have a high percentage of outdoor climbers, tend to line up earlier in the grading scale. before those other numbers? Why are bouldering and sport climbing grades so different? How the heck do you figure out where to start?? To learn the basics of climbing grades, get a little background, or just get an explanation as to why we climbers have succumbed to this grading chaos, read on! My gym to your gym conversion chart It's widely accepted that my gym's grades are a lot harder than the grades at your gym because your gym caters to weak babies craving unearned dopamine hits. How? By Bouldering grades: V scale and french grade conversion? Can someone help me get straightened out with the conversion from the v scale to the french (Font) scale? Mar 21, 2022 · Most gyms don’t grade their problems to replicate outdoor climbs. That's not how UK trad grades work. Reply reply eshlow • For alpine climbing/mountaineering and big wall climbing, you'll also see grade levels in roman numerals which represent the typical length of time it takes to complete a route. No ridiculous cruxes, not 80 meters long. So now im confused. Humbling but still a lot of fun and satisfying though!!! Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Best SpongebobQuoteReply • I know there are conversion tables online, but I’d like to sample r/climbharder on what your highest boulder and rope climb grade is (outdoor or indoor). The reason being that the width of grades on a specific scale are not comparable or that grades are not linear across the whole scale. But as the popularity of rock climbing burgeons globally, understanding the intricacies of climbing grades has become more confusing. About this Sports Climbing Grades table: This is a lead climbing grade conversion chart. In this thread you can ask any climbing related question that you may have. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. I like to use a conversion chart like this as more of an lower limit for a route grade. Your point about gym climbing encouraging bad tactics and habits is spot on. Sport climbs are usually graded on a) the hardest move OR b) there is no singular crux / hard move and what makes it hard is pump management. The YDS also includes ratings for mountaineering and other types of climbing, but these are expressed in a different format than the rock climbing grades, using Roman numerals and other symbols. Now I’m reading that 4th class terrain (wich should be even easier than UIAA I) already requires the use of a rope. Im curious what everyone’s climbing progression/timeline has been like? How quickly did you progress from V1 to V2, and then V2 to V3 etc (not limited to bouldering grades). Gyms in larger metro areas (in my experience) tend to not line up with outdoor grades until V7 or later. Plus, the gaps between V2/V2+/V3- etc are enormous to get it lined up with outdoor grades more quickly. Sorry for missing the start, my friend wasn't ready to film lol. Here's your guide for comparing indoor to outdoor bouldering grades. Pretty much agreed with this. I'm not looking for the answer to be exact science, I simply though it could be a fun discussion. Does anyone have anymore that could be added? (disclaimer to say grading can be rly subjective and qualitative so I did the best I could!!) Mar 17, 2023 · Confusingly, both bouldering and french climbing grades use the same numerical system to grade climbing routes and boulder problems. 10a and 5. I dont even really get the comparison between different areas. 9. Watching videos of other people climbing its hard to tell the actual difficulty. Case in point: yesterday I went to the gym on a "rest day", without a plan except to have fun, and ended up climbing about 50 boulder problems, including five in the hardest circuit (which is way too taxing for Part of the problem with answering this is that grades are inconsistent. In this beginners guide, we go over everything that goes into bouldering grades and what you need to know. It ranges from beginner levels, starting around 1-kyu (easier) to more advanced levels like 1-dan (harder). Average in u/GradeConversionBot: Bot that converts climbing grades between YDS and French grades. Hey all, the gym I go to uses a C grading system (C1 - C8) I'm rather new to bouldering/climbing (currently at C3) and I can't find anyone else using a C grading system. Free, fast, and easy-to-use climbing grade converter. The quotes in the URL are fucking up reddit's hyperlinking so just copy and paste. It was red tape which they classify as V0+-V1 or 5Q (Japanese grading). Climbing Grade Conversions Climbing grades can be confusing due to the various systems used around the world. ” Climbing Rating Conversion. 10b", "Damn Jia Lat=5. This is a total guess but I ride peloton and zwift with a smart trainer, and do quite a bit of climbing, so I’m very familiar with the incline grades and power output during some of zwift’s larger climbs. Carelessness like these might lead you to life-threatening injuries or even death itself, and we’re not exaggerating. Quickly convert climbing grades between different systems: French, YDS, UIAA, and more. IMPORTANT – Below is a very rough table and it is impossible to provide an accurate conversion between technical difficulty of the hardest climbing – a sport grade/UIAA/USA grade – and overall difficulty of the full route experience from approach through climbing, conditions and descent – Alpine Grade. Comparatively, Most finals WC problems for men are about 2D or 3D. 12c at a new school crag. Online conversion tool for climbing grades & bouldering grades: Trad grade, uiaa, french sport grade, boulder grades, american scale & many. The colors are nice because they tell you how the free climbing grades roughly correspond to the bouldering grades below. Today we’re going to state the means of avoiding all these unfortunate possibilities explicitly. com I suspect a big reason there is a lot of data “missing” in the below 7A range for +’s is that the grade conversion in the US doesn’t generally use them. Here’s a rundown of the main climbing grade systems and how they compare: International rock climbing classification systems are shown in the chart at the right, and below is a comparison of Alpine, Ice, Snow, Aid, an The Japanese Grade is a grading system used in Japan to rate the difficulty of bouldering problems. Just curious about the skill and strength transfer from indoor/board climbing to outdoors. My question is how do you think each color converts to a specific V-grade? I'm able to climb most blue tapes now and a few red tapes. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. 469 votes, 211 comments. 10b, or 5. C3+). However, a lot of gyms in Sweden are also softer on grading than my current gym. Plus one system might not represent climbing types from other regions. There are E9's that are French 7c death routes - Indian Face the obvious example - and there are E9's that To all the US climbers who say that grades are completely subjective: don't you have consensus grading over there? Here, the first ascensionists grade the route, but that initial grade is raised or lowered by subsequent ascensionists until there's general agreement that it's right. My non climbing friend (although seems interested and has learned quite a bit about climbing through me) asked me about the differences between the abcd parts of the grade, how would you describe the advance in difficulty through each letter or number grade? Can someone riddle me the conversion between YDS and UIAA? All the tables say 5. I get that its good to have a reference so you know what you'll have a good shot at sending or whatever, but its never apples to apples. For women its about 1D to 2D. I. 10b sport outside when I started getting into trad, then kinda had to start over when learning on gear. Hi everyone. I was reading and watching a lot about the V5/V6 plateau that most intermediate climbers hit, and I was expecting this to be around the 6b on the french scale. I cant find any referance to a grading system like that, it might be one they made up for the gym. . Further, we all start climbing at different times in our lives, with all sorts of different body types and backgrounds; I am of the opinion that younger people who climb in a team environment will with out a doubt progress Someone in r/climbing put plateauing into perspective for me: “if your flash grade becomes close to or exactly your max grade, you need to project more and focus on strength training on off days. Learn about climbing and bouldering ratings, including how route difficulty is measured and the difference between a rating and a grade. Mar 17, 2012 · Indoor rock climbing gyms have two types of rock climbing available, bouldering and sport climbing. I was climbing V4 at my old gym, moved, and was knocked down to V2. Learn everything about climbing grades and quickly convert any climbing rating with our free climbing grade conversion chart. While grades are usually applied fairly consistently across a climbing area, there are often perceived differences between grading at different climbing areas. 12 and up climbers of reddit, how long did it take you to climb these grades? For "clean aid climbing" (i. Climbing grades are inherently subjective [1] - they are the opinion of one or a few climbers, often the first ascentionist or the author (s) of a guidebook. lead. For the sake of simplicity, let's just imagine the most basic 9a. on the other hand, i think the french system, which is more holistic, reflects actual climbing performance for a particular bouldering grade better than the US system Outdoor climbing grades (like gym grades) vary, but folks tend to annotate and write up fewer easy boulders, so outdoor boulder grades trend harder than indoor ones, even comparing local gyms to boulders. The home of Climbing on reddit. 5. Someone should do a survey of climbers' indoor and outdoor grades and control for variables like years of experience, frequency of climbing, style of climbing, etc. Similar to this one that compared bouldering vs. Top 5 International Climbing Grade Rating Systems If you’re climbing abroad, you should be familiar with other systems, including the French grading system, the UIAA grading system, and a handful of Apr 27, 2025 · If you’re wondering how 8A+ converts to the V Scale or the Yosemite Decimal System, the short answer is: 8A+ equals V12 and roughly 5. My peloton reads slightly higher in terms of wattage than my kickr under the same perceived power but it is surprisingly close. Convert North American climbing grades to UK and European scales, and compare bouldering V-grades to roped climbs. Bouldering grades are graded using different systems across different regions. that said don't stress to much about grades, every gym will grade climbs differently, even if they use the same scale. Done done and done. Grades can be subjective and may vary slightly between locations or setters. 2 in YDS is converted in I/II UIAA. If it isn't on Mountain Project, the grade is probably whatever you felt it is. Dry tooling mixes ice climbing and rock climbing technique, along with a few moves that are completely unique to the sport Jun 5, 2023 · As you read this article, remember that all grades are subjective! Climbing Grades Comparison Chart To help you navigate through the convoluted world of climbing grades, we have put together a climbing grade conversion chart. That's pretty much it, and it also doesn't particularly matter. 8a maps the V grades below V6 to the non-plus grades, so every V3 is called a 6A, even if elsewhere some would be 6A or some 6A+. A 5. Reddit's rock climbing training community. In fact, I can go a few weeks In Japan, gyms are graded harder or equal to real boulders in the surrounding areas. In principle, any E-grade can also be perfectly safe, it just needs to be physically harder than a scary route of the same grade. Feb 14, 2024 · Understanding Bouldering Grades Bouldering grades stand as a universal metric, offering climbers a standardized means to assess the difficulty of boulder problems, whether encountered outdoors in natural landscapes or within the controlled environments of climbing gyms. This bouldering grades comparison table is designed to help climbers convert from Hueco to French and back to French to V-Scale. As the other commenter said, sounds about right. Asking because I'm curious as to what For climbing programmers: I made an open source climbing grade conversion library (Javascript). The rockfax grade tables offer a flexible and accurate comparison from the main world grading systems to the unique british trad grade and uk tech grade. I'm looking at this conversion chart and am curious why V0 is rated the same as a 5. This thread will be posted again every Friday so there should always be an opportunity to ask your question and have it answered. Well, I can climb sevens, maybe an eight or two at boulder lab and I can climb v4 benchmarks ish on a hard board (grasshopper or moon), make of that what you will. I met this guy the other day who is easily doing the V8's in the gym who has been climbing since September! That seems crazy to me, so I guess my question is: is there like a normal scale for how long you've been climbing vs. Thanks. Just in the same way that a 5. grades you can climb? I mean, I You may be visiting different gyms in your area or have tried outdoor climbs and noticed that the grades aren’t as black and white as they seem on paper. 43 votes, 132 comments. I'm a rock climber, but I still quite like gym climbing, and I find it hard to throttle myself in the gym. If you could just post that jazz in the comments below, that would be much appreciated! "Quite Relak=5. I was leading up to about 5. Understanding the different grading systems and how they convert can help you to gauge the difficulty of routes across different regions. 86K subscribers in the ClimbingCircleJerk community. At which grade did you start to plateau? When did you start seriously training? Is the difference in difficulty between letter grades after 5. So I was wondering if anyone has or knows about any conversion charts so I can get a better understanding of where I am at and difficulties of climbs on a more universal grading system. What do these grades translate to in V-grade and British system? So my country uses the french scale for indoor sports climbing. As mixed climbing has become more popular, the subset of “sport drytooling” has gained traction too: climbing bare rock, with ice climbing equipment, but with no actual ice in sight. To my surprise V5 converts to 7b and V6 to 7c in the french scale. If you're interested in grade chasing I suggest getting into board climbing and/or outdoors. Can somebody tell me what the actual point of this way is?? : r/climbergirls     Go to climbergirls r/climbergirls r/climbergirls A sub for I know it's tough to give a completely grade, since 9a's varies so much, as do boulders. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Having climbed in the USA, South Africa, Australia and New Zealand, my experience is that grade conversion sheets are really only accurate to +/- 3 grade increments. Miserable. 12b, the same as whole numbers… Mixed Climbing To understand the grading system, it’s important to first understand what mixed climbing is. The chart below shows a conversion between the Fontainebleau bouldering scale and the french climbing scale. Please sort comments by 'new' to find questions that would otherwise be buried. I am currently projecting a V4 at my local bouldering gym and wanted to know what E-Grade equivalent it would actually convert to, because I bet it’s freakin’ hard and could maybe seek sponsorship. I compiled some bouldering-specific grading charts, cos on the internet there's loads for climbing but none for bouldering grades. Mike is our patron, Honnold our saviour I was wondering where people (on average) max out on their grade. Climbing is fun, and there’s no denying that. One of the potential reasons given was indoor bouldering in the lower grading, the VB, and V0-, V0, and even V0+ plus grades aren't really used so often indoors the easiest jug climbs can be given V0 and only I climb the same grade on the moon board as my gym grades, despite having very little experience with board climbing. Imagine traveling overseas to climb and you find a guidebook with a different grading system than you’ve never used! Instead of picking out a boulder based on if you think it’ll be a warmup, familiarise yourself with the differences in bouldering grades and how they convert to each other. Anyone know the conversion for the boulder grades at Calgary Climbing Center? Archived post. Converting sports grading systems, bouldering grade. What's the Deal with British Trad Climbing? || E Grades Explained Little explainer of British trad grades, enjoy! I moved to Australia from the US and the climbing gym I go to grades their routes off colored tape which I think is standard. g. your best bet will be to ask the gym staff, they might be able to point you in the right direction. 9 route. /uj My gym, above V1, starts curving super hard through V2-V4, and probably lines up with outdoor grading at about V5. If you're an experienced climber and want to contribute to the community, these threads are a great A lot of the grades are historical and routed in the local climbing cultures, which developed independently from each other in different regions of the world. Where did I take the wrong turn? its super confusing because at certain points the french bouldering and climbing grades are similar, but at both ends they diverge pretty significantly. Even better than a bot might just be to throw a conversion chart between French/YDS and Font/Hueco grades into the sidebar. And yes we are scared of falling. Reply My point being I don't think soft gym grades are doing a disservice to climbers, if anything I think the fear of outdoor climbing being harder probably inhibits more people from performing better than the soft grades. Any grade can be so bold you're practically soloing, the climbing just needs to be really physically easy for the grade. I’ve been climbing about 8 years, leading trad consistently for maybe 3. This is while in route descriptions you’ll see things like “easy climbing to a boulder crux” OR “sustained climbing” (meaning no bouldery crux section This is a bouldering climbing grade conversion chart. Because E-grades encompass everything around the climb and environment let me put a few important points that I think increase the I've been climbing since November at my college gym and am basically at a V4/V5 level and same with one of my friends that I climb with. if a route boils down to just a single boulder problem (roped bouldering, something quite common where I live) then the grade of that boulder problem determines how low the route can be graded. 1. Mar 26, 2014 · (Comparable to the technical grade of a UK trad grade). 11 at you gym might be a 5. hhid xrcvryof xxbv whfalc gijx ykgfptj ustsi ffsq xsky cygjew rvbnxn fyewx yri zjqsioky etky